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caissa is a good game, it's fun and light and games don't take that long to play. freeling isn't so big on it anymore tho, it used to be on the mind arena and it's not anymore. but i still think it would be a good one for the tourney. flip shogi is a good one also. <P>
i'd recommend against rifle chess. i found it to be a very poor game. <P>
i'd also wondering about what we're going to do for time constraints. i know from experience that a general statement 'everybody should move as fast as possible' doesn't work; everybody moves as fast as possible until they're busy with other things in their lives, or the game gets to a complicated state. a move per day doesn't work either, too many people can't get online every day, nor does it give you extra time for complicated positions. i have to admit tho, that i don't have any good ideas for a solution right now. i'm now spoiled by richard's pbm, which clocks everybody's time and can be set so that each player has a total amount of time (such as 120 days) to finish their game.
Time limits are the headache of correspondence chess. Sigh. I, too, am spoiled by Richard's PBEM server. The Omega Chess tournament there is at G/180 days (30 days vacation with notice allowed), and that G/180 gets counted to the minute and second by the central server. Obviously we don't have that option. Suggestions for how to best count a G/XX time limit are welcome. I'd like to see a year maximum on the games, and expect to see more small variants than large for that reason (and the fact that we've had a lot of small variant design contests!). An absolute time limit of Y days for any individual move, with one warning and a notice provision for vacations, might also work in lieu of the above.
I think I like Glenn's idea of X days per move, with one warning before forfeiture, and suspension upon proper notice of vacation, illness, personal matters, etc. Since this tournament should be viewed as a friendly one between like-minded variant players, the rules shouldn't be too restrictive. I think 3 days per player-move should cover most situations other than the aforementioned major ones, and it means that in a year all games that take less than 60 full moves will be finished. In reality, games even much longer can probably be finished since players will in most cases not take 3 days for every move. For some games, and on some days, I know that I will be able to play several moves if my opponent is agreeable.
Obviously, the ten games should be Chess with Different Armies, Feeble Chess, Tripunch Chess, Half Chess, Amontillado Chess, Progressive Cambiamarce DemiChess, Torus Peacebump Punch Chess, Cloud Chess, All Go Together Chess, Nemoroth, and Alice's Chessgi. I tend to pick from games i'm more familiar with....
I'm afraid I don't recognize some of those. :) Maybe we have to do a Ralph Betza tournament some time. Then a Peter Aronson tournament the following year. Maybe Parton or Schmittberger or Freeling the year after that.
HAS ANYONE HEARD OF A MAXIMUM OF 13 ALLOWABLE MOVES TO MATE A LONE KING, ASSUMING ENOUGH OPPOSING PIECES FOR A CHECKMATE?
There is no such rule. The maximum allowable number of moves in such a position is 50, with certain conditions. (See the laws for more details about the fifty move rule.) The figure thirteen probably comes from end game studies. If I remember correctly, King and Rook vs bare King can mate in 13 moves or less starting from any legal, non-stalemated position. I belive the corresponding figures are 8 for King and Queen vs bare King, 14 for King and 2 Bishops (on opposite colors) vs bare King, and 49 for King, Bishop, and Knight vs bare King. [Someone please correct me if my memory is faulty.] But all the numbers I quoted assume perfect play--the laws do not require perfect play. (Except in the last case, but truthfully I don't know how to force mate with a Bishop and Knight in 1000 moves, nor has anyone ever done it to me.)
These are the salient points, as I see them: - There are so many good variants it's hard to even agree on a list to select from. - Large variants should be carefully considered because of playing time considerations. - Subsequent PBEM tournaments could have different themes. My proposal: - Select the variants from the top three finishers of the 38, 39, 40, and 41 square contests. This gives 12 selections to choose from, and most are not famous or recognized variants. Their playablility is proven, they are relatively small, and should generally be done quickly. I like the idea of holding a different PBEM contest each year, if there is interest. Possibilities include a Large Variant theme (selected from the Large Variant, 100 square, and 84 square contests); a Betza theme (all Betza variants); an Aronson theme. The games selected for these contests should not overlap. Other possibilities include a history theme (Shatranj, Xiangqi, Shogi, Makruk, etc.); a Shogi variant theme (Tori, Chu, Wa, etc.); etc. Count me in.
I prefer regular-sized or large variants to small ones, so I'd not like to see the contest limited to games of 38-41 squares, though I'd certainly not object to some of those games being included. I'd rather see the slate of games for any given year be eclectic -- some small, some normal-sized, some large, and from a variety of inventors or sources. You get to experience more interesting games that way, I think, and no one gets left out because all of the games in a given year are not to his/her taste.
It looks like I'll be the editor in charge of the first tournament. Right now I have compiled, with plenty of suggestions, a list of 42 games to pick from. They break down around 50% regular board size, 33% smaller, 16% larger. I am constructing a poll to allow folks to vote on any of those games they would like to see in, and indeed to suggest others. The set of games to be used _in 2003_ will be picked by the staff here guided by the polls. We want a mix of old, new, big, small, etc. Variety is key the first time out. When and if the first tourney succeeds, I'd love to see 'thematics' later, much as we have held a variety of design contests. The linchpin issue is simply whether we can get players. I'd be happy with 10, but would love 20 or more. And picking good games is a prerequisite to getting players. And I agree with the comment that there are so many good games it's hard to get agreement on a list. That's why I suggested this; lots of good games languishing in obscurity. Please keep the feedback coming...
i see quite a few things have been posted on this subject while i was out of town this weekend. i would also caution against too many large variants for the same reason that they take much longer to play. in a previous comment i listed a bunch of larger variants as possibilities, but i wasn't suggested we play all of them, just that they were all good possibilities. i would also be careful about small variants that are chosen. as both a game designer and judge, i know that designing a small chess variant is much more difficult than designing a medium or large one. i found very very few small variants that i was truly impressed with, and even fewer that were so well designed that they would not have been improved if the ideas had been extended to a larger game. even some of the games that ranked high in some of the contests i found to be quite weak.
Wonderful idea! As far as the timing, either the 3 days per move or the total day limit idea would work, I think. Total days used could be tracked manually with each PBEM exchange. As far as a list of games, here's some ideas: - Chaturanga (worthy grandad of Chess) - Jumping Chess (interesting capturing mechanic) - Glinski's Hexagonal Chess (hex mechanics) - Makruk (wonderful old and contemporary variant) - Take Over Chess (I'm partial to it!) - Chess on a Longer Board (its that Wall) - Xiangqi (another worthy variant) - Mulligan Stew Chess (crazy but fun)
Here's a little throwaway thought I had on the morning drive:
<h3>Card Chess Without Randomness or Hidden Information</h3>
People have used cards to add an element of randomness to Chess, probably
for centuries. I have no problem with this, but some people do, a fact
that led me to wonder if an interesting version of Chess with Cards
containing no random elements or other hidden information could be
constructed.
<h4>The Equipment</h4>
Each player starts with 16 cards, 15 of which contain all the possible
unordered combinations of two pieces, and the last of which is a wild
card. Thus:
<p>
PN, PB, PR, PQ, PK, NB, NR, NQ, NK, BR, BQ, BK, NQ, NK, QK, Wild.
<h4>The Play</h4>
To move a piece, a player must have a card with either that piece on the
card or they must have a wild card. Upon moving that piece, they hand the
card they used to allow the move to their opponent, who adds it to their
own cards.
<p>
If a player has no card that would allow them to move any of their pieces,
they lose. Other forms of stalemate are also losses.
<p>
Pieces give check even without their player having a card that would allow
them to move the piece.
<p>
If the King is in check, it may be moved either by playing a card with a
King on it, or by playing a card with a piece attacking the King on it.
If the King is in check and you have no card that would allow it to move,
then it is mate.
<h4>Chess with Different Armies</h4>
This scheme ought to work OK with Chess with Different Armies, although I
am not entirely sure what the consequences are, since the relative
strength of pieces from equivalent array positions differ (for example,
in the Remarkable Rookies the 'Bishop' is Rook strength, and the 'Rook' is
a minor piece; the Colorbound Clobberers are even more oddly distributed).
<h4>Comments</h4>
Since there are plenty of cards with each piece, openings ought to be
fairly standard. Things start to get weird when players lose all of types
of piece. If a player has no Knights, Bishops or Queens, then the cards
NB, NQ and BQ will never leave their hands.
<p>
Possibly there are too many cards with each piece on them.
I need to play with this. It's quite an idea. I wonder if the King shouldn't be like any other piece, even in check; if you're in check, have no card to move the King, and can't defeat the check otherwise it is mate. The concept will map with interesting results to a lot of variants that use the ordinary 8x8 and 32 pieces. The cards might even work best with a form other than orthochess. Peter, you think too much! :)
Just had another thought...a 10-card version with five cards each for King and Pawn, two cards each for others, with the Wild card. Or 9 without the Wild card. The optimum card mix, as you astutely noted, may not yet be known. KQ KB KN KR KP PQ PB PN PR (Wild)
I like your 10 card set -- it makes card hording more practical, while
allowing the Kings and Pawns reasonably mobile. And with 6 out of 10
cards showing the King, I agree the special King privilege to use the
attacking piece's card when in check is not in necessary.
<hr>
:: Peter, you think too much! :)
<p>
Well, 'Die Gedanken sind frei', I guess :)
An issue has occured to me -- under the rules I've defined, Black will always have one or two cards more than white, which is probably excessive.
<p>
Here's an idea to correct it:
<ul>
<p>
<li>
White starts with 1 copy each of all cards except the wild card, black starts with the cards white does, plus 1 wild card.
</li>
<p>
<li>
On white's first move, they use no card; thus black starts with the wild card and with one more card than white.
</li>
</ul>
Black starting with the wild card offsets white's first move advantage some, hopefully.
Does castling require one card, or two, as you see it? I vote one, a King card, since officially castling has long been viewed as a move of the King. But I could go either way. A 19-card set sounds like a plan...White with nine, Black with nine plus the Wild card, no card used on White's first move. I can see some potential for endgame draws, where mating material is hindered by a lack of sufficient cards to make the moves. :)
Castling as a King move is a good idea, I think. The endgame. Hmm. A K + Q vs K endgame could be stymied by the player with the bare King holding on to the KQ, PQ and (Wild) cards. I wonder if some additional mechanism is called for. Of course, it needs to be seen if this game comes down to situations like that. Pawns are relatively mobile, and because there are many cards that let Pawns move, they defend each other with greater effectiveness than other pieces. It seems to indicate that Pawnless endgames may not be as common as in usual Chess.
Peter, It seems like another new game is about to be born in the comments system. It looks like a very good one. If drawishness is a problem because of hoarding cards as you suggest it may be, perhaps the answer is to use a stronger than FIDE army to compensate for the difficulites of moving. K and Amazon vs K should be more winnable than K and Q vs K as fewer moves are needed=card hoarding is less effective. But I would really prefer the FIDE army if the game is playable with it.
Another possibility is to use as a base game where material doesn't decrease over the course of the game, such as Chessgi. Of course, to some extent card hording is a good thing in the context of this game, as it allows some additional tactics, and using Chessgi as a base would decrease the possibility for this.
<p>
One could go for more radical modifications, of course, but they would be less Chess-like. For instance, if a player has no Pawns, and has no cards that would allow them to move any piece but their King, they may drop a Pawn using a Pawn card on any unoccupied square on their 2nd rank. That, combined with promotion, might allow more decisive endgames.
John's way ahead of me, i was about to post the same thing. we couldn't find anything, i couldn't even find anything overseas - except the grandchess board on freeling's site, which, altho nice looking, is very expensive and has huge shipping charges. <P>
there was also the 12x12 quantum board, but i never saved the money to get a set, and reportedly the company no longer exists. <P>
george hodges sells vinyl 7x7, 9x9, 11x11, 12x12, 15x15, 17x17, 19x19 and 25x25, but again he is transatlantic and not inexpensive, and additionally the boards are uncheckered. <P>
i have found almost nothing on ebay either. <P>
i am mostly interested in a 10x10 for use with the exchess pieces. i hope to eventually make my own tile boards similar to the ones tony quintilla made, but it may be awhile before i have the time or the money to do this, and i'm not sure how well mine will come out. and i'm still interested in wood boards and exploring all options. <P>
Perhaps you might consider buying an Omega Chess set (http://www.omegachess.com), which uses a 10x10 board with extra corner squares which could be ignored for the 10x10 gaes you want to play.
Thanks, but i have an omegachess set. we're looking for something considerably nicer than the omegachess board, which is made out of cardboard and has a cut halfway through so that it can fold into quarters. it would not do the exchess pieces justice.
btw, i am also aware that the commercial variant 'roman chess' comes with a vinyl 10x10 board. it looks pretty nice, but the set is also $70, which seems rather high, especially considering that the design of the additional piece is one of the most uncreative pieces i've ever seen. <P>
sorry, looks like we have gotten into a discussion here that's become completely unrelated to the page we're actually posting it to.
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