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Comments by GaryK.Gifford

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Game Courier Ratings. Calculates ratings for players from Game Courier logs. Experimental.[All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
Gary Gifford wrote on Wed, Jan 11, 2006 12:30 AM UTC:
The CxR concept is as follows... and to use it for CV seems easy.

New Rating = Your Old Rating PLUS (Score x 21) PLUS (Pre-Game Rating of
Opponent MINUS Your Pre-Game Rating) [divided by 25]

where Score is +1 for a WIN, 0 for a DRAW,  -1 for a LOSS

So, if I am 1800 and my opponent is 1900 and I win:

My New Rating would be:  1800 + (1 x 21) + (1900 - 1800)/25
My New Rating would be:  1800 + 21 + 4 =   1825

For the 1900 guy I played we'd see:
His New Rating = 1900 + (-1 x 21) + (1800 -1900) / 25
His New Rating = 1900 -21 -4 = 1875

The website I mentioned has different examples and includes unrated player
calculations.  But, even if we apply the CxR to the initial Ratings you
(Fergus) have calculated, this system will polish the values over time
and we will have numbers close to those seen in the USCF.

The winning probability is actually irrelevant when using this system.

Gary Gifford wrote on Wed, Jan 11, 2006 05:28 PM UTC:
Originally I wrote, in part: 'For a player's rating to rise or fall while sitting on his (or her) laurels seems terrible to me.' However, in the 4 hours that have since then passed I have reversed my hasty opinion (obviously biased by years under the USCF Rating system). Anyway, since we are talking about a player's playing strength in relation to other player's playing strenghts,[an ever changing field of relative values] then in that light a static [or frozen rating] just isn't realistic... and is not a valid number for comparison. So, by further thought I have crossed the fence to Fergus's side of the ratings camp. I still don't like the idea of fun-games and experimental games getting thrown into the equation, but I guess we have to start somewhere. So, in closing, thank you Fergus for all the effort you are putting into this. I am sure it will turn out well and be valued over time.

Gary Gifford wrote on Wed, Jan 11, 2006 11:37 PM UTC:
Good questions.  I'll deffer them to Fergus as he understands what is
going on here far better than I do and I could end up giving a wrong
answer.  But I do know a player who was about 2000.  Unfortunately he has
a mental condition, he is now about 1400 and getting weeker in all
cognitive areas.  It is now a strain for him just to walk. 
Understandably, he could have quit playing chess while at 2000... but he
still plays.  Anyway, if he quit at 2000 his frozen 2000 rating would
certainly be false.  Of course, if he quit and his rating climbed, that
too would be false.  It would need to drop over time to reflect reality. 
Would this happen with the equations Fergus is using?  I don't know... 
We can shoot all kinds of rating situations around and argue one way or
the other, but what is the point?  Does it really matter?

Why should we get so wrapped up in these values?  They are just a means of
comparison.  Before we had nothing.  Now we will have something.  If we do
not like that 'something' then we can choose the 'unrated game' option
once implemented.  We can also play in USCF tournaments where our ratings
will freeze once we quit playing.

Pillars of Medusa. A variation of Turkish Great Chess plus two additional pieces, the Morph and the Medusa. (11x11, Cells: 121) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Sun, Jan 15, 2006 10:52 PM UTC:
I just made a Mini-POM (Mini-Pillars of Medusa) on a 9x9 board (as compared
to the 121 (11 x 11) board of the original game.  Mini-POM retains the
Medusa and the Morph pieces, but does not include the Great Chess Pieces.

A link to the pre-set is below.  Rules can be accessed by the rules-link
at the pre-set.  As a note to those not familiar with Pillars of Medusa,
the Medusa piece freezes adjacent enemy pieces.  The Morph can change into
a Morph-version of what it captures.

http://play.chessvariants.org/pbm/play.php?game%3DMini-POM+%28Mini+Pillars+of+Medusa%29%26settings%3DMini-POM

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Tue, Jan 17, 2006 05:53 PM UTC:
Larry: Thanks for sharing the idea regarding placing all the Swords[pawns]
on the fourth rank.  Your reasoning, which I quote in part, is good:
'...the player is able to re-position power pieces with ease and
increasing the depth of play with the possible variety of introduction to
the field.'  

In the original POM most can pieces can enter the field quickly by leaping
over the second rank pawns, or moving diagonally when one moves forward. 
As in chess, the rooks are the slow guys.

Pawns on the 4th ranks would be subject to a faster Medusa attack by the
opponent.  Anyway, your idea sounds like it is worth a try.

Another 'try' lies between your idea and the original.  It would be to
place all swords (pawns) on the third rank, put the Medusa and Morph on E2
and G2 (to keep them central), and to put the Pillars at A2 and K2. 
Possible then remove one or two ranks from the board to put the armies
closer.

As a development note: Pillars of Medusa was my very first chess variant,
and at the time it was just for a novel I was working on... in the novel a
mind-reading queen plays POM against the hero.  His pieces have, within
them, the names of his friends (who are prisoners of the queen).  When he
loses a piece the queen reveals the name inside, and has that person
executed.  Not a fun way to have to play a game.

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Tue, Jan 17, 2006 10:26 PM UTC:
I've given more thought to Larry's suggestion of POM (original 11 x 11
game) having pawns on the fourth rank and Serpents on the right-hand side
of each King. It does seem like it could be a very different game with the
'behind the pawns' manuevers. If anyone is interested in playing that
variation I can quickly adjust the pre-set to create a 'Pillars of
Medusa, L.L. Smith Setup.'  Or, if Mr. Smith wants to make such a
pre-set, I have no objection.  I must admit that I do not like the green
color pieces, and I wonder if I was on strong cold-medication at the time
I made them.  On the plus side, that piece-set has morph-equivalents for
all pieces, and thus, despite the color, are preferable to the alternate
Grand/Great Set pieces (fot this game, that is... certainly not for others).  

I just had this idea, which would make for quite a game, but holding zones
would need added to the pre-set.  The idea is this: (1) Use the L.L. Smith
Setup.  (2) Play the game Shogi-style.  Captured pieces change color and
you can drop them.  Now that, I think would be a very dynamic game.  A
Medusa in-hand, would be very dangerous.  If Mr. Smith does  not mind, I
think I'd like to make this game and, of course, give him credit for the
setup concept.

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Wed, Jan 18, 2006 01:05 AM UTC:
Larry: Your setup suggestion seems well-suited to the POM Shogi concept and a single pre-set could be used for either Shogi or non-Shogi play. I agree about lifting the Shogi pawn restrictions regarding dropping pawns (swords) in the same file. I will look into the aspect of promtion zones. The idea of a pawn drop with checkmate seems fine to me, at present. Thank you very much for your valued input.

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Wed, Jan 18, 2006 10:33 PM UTC:
The new variation of Pillars of Medusa has been named 'Medusa Shogi' as we now have Shogi-like drops and pawns will be promoting to Medusas (these are quite deadly). The rules have been submitted. I made a preset for the new game, but for some reason the link to it goes to an 8x8 board with abstract pieces. I never had that happen before with pre-sets. I cut and paste the links so a typing error is not the problem. If anyone can tell me how to make an 11 x 11 board with a holding zone (3 or 4 files wide) to be used as a Shogi 'piece-in-hand' zone, I'd be muched obliged. Until then, I will keep experimenting.

Medusa Shogi. Missing description (11x11, Cells: 121) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 19, 2006 01:41 AM UTC:
I now have a preset for Medusa Shogi which can be reached by the following
link.  However, I do not yet have a piece holding zone.  This means,
unfortunately, that players would need to keep track of their pieces
in-hand (plus their oponent's pieces in-hand)... By 'in-hand I mean the
captured pieces that you can drop. In time I hope to add a piece
holding-zone.

http://play.chessvariants.org/pbm/play.php?game%3DMedusa+Shogi%26settings%3DMedusaShogi

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 19, 2006 10:45 AM UTC:
Thanks Michael, your comment in part '... promoted pawns reverting to pawns when captured deserves consideration.' I think you are correct. I will likely make the rule change during lunch... with all Medusas turning to pawns when captured.

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 19, 2006 05:55 PM UTC:
After giving Michael Howe's comment and the Medusa much thought, and after considering the power in the game and the idea of dropping that power 'Shogi-style' I made some Medusa changes. They now move like Kings, cannot capture (only immobilize); and when Medusas are captured they become pawns, as you suggested. Many Thanks.

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 19, 2006 09:54 PM UTC:
Hi Larry: I have no ZRF plans and having seen a few of your ZRFs I'd be very pleased if you created one for Medusa Shogi. To my knowledge the updated rules should have all the information you would need. The existing Pillars of Medusa ZRF may have code you could use for the Morph and adjust for the Medusa. The pre-set has the needed font set (which includes Morph designators). Thanks for the offer and I look forward to seeing the final project.

💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Fri, Jan 20, 2006 05:43 PM UTC:
As prompted by Larry's comments regaring Morph issues, I have updated the rules page with a Morph examples table. With Medusas, Morphs, and Shogi drops I really want to keep the Morph aspect as simple as possible. And now it really is quite simple. Basically, when a Morph captures a piece, that captured piece goes in-hand to drop. If it is a morph, it stays a morph. It does not matter if the Morph making the capture transforms (to the image of the captured piece) or not. The newly added Morph table (rules page) has several illustrated examples, including that of a Morph-Medusa being captured. Thanks for the comments and questions, they provided impetus to update the rules.

Navia Dratp. An upcoming commercial chess variant with collectible, tradable pieces. (7x7, Cells: 49) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 26, 2006 12:13 AM UTC:Excellent ★★★★★
I was introduced to Navia Dratp recently by Chess Master John Vehre, who speaks highly of the game. I have since played over one of Mr. Vehre's tournament ND games 3 times and a few games of others. These games convinced me that Navia Dratp is a great game. I also see each piece as a small work of art. As for the cost... I was able to order the two starters from a gaming company for $14.98 each (that is not close to the $60 mentioned in another comment, though I did see them listed at that high price elsewhere). Unlike most strategy games, this one allows for an astronomical number of opening scenarios. To play a game well one must consider piece play and economics (of a crystal wealth factor which changes with moves, captures, and promotions (Dratps). My sets (and a few individual pieces I ordered separately) are scheduled to arrive tomorrow and I look very much forward to them. My Shogi opponent at work and I will be giving Navia Dratp some serious game play.

Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 26, 2006 10:44 AM UTC:
Once you have the 2 Navia Dratp starters (that you can acquire for about $30 ($14.98 per individual set)from a few on-line game stores) you can play Navia Dratp over-the-board. At the beginning of a game you and your opponent can take turns drawing pieces from the lot... or, you can pick your starting army at random. This should take care of the 'power paranoia' aspect of the game. There is no need to buy expansion pieces, none at all. The extra pieces just allow for more variety in strategy and tactics. They also allow for someone to collect figures and possibly paint them (as a hobby, if one desires). As for the artistic aspect, 'Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder.' In regard to being able to play over games, I drew a 7x7 board in MS paint. Then I drew the movement patterns (available at www.naviadratp.com under 'piece list). I then cut and relocated the MS Paint pieces. This was how I played over the Chess Master's game 3 times. But you could also put the movement disks on checkers (having a Dratp and non-Dratp side) and use a real board. In regard to the Navi Dratp naming convention, yes, they are a bit strange in some cases, sounding like ancient Japanese Warriors or ancient mythical creatures, but as in the one Wings song, 'What's wrong with that, I'd like to know.'

Gary Gifford wrote on Thu, Jan 26, 2006 11:42 PM UTC:
I just wanted to verify that it was not me who made the comment Michael Howe ojected to. In fact, at first I thought the comment was criticising me for not actually having played the game (only having looked at the ND games of others). Anyway, the UPS delivered it a few hours ago and I was impressed with the size and detail of the pieces. Even the wife was impressed... and she's not a gamer. My 15 year-old son challenged me to a game while I was setting up the board and, though I tried to win, I lost due to that economic crystal factor (my Masters Degree In Business Administration and my paper on Gaming Theory failed to help me). Now, understand that my son has never come close to beating me at chess and I give him 1-Rook-odds and there is a $10 reward for when he does win. But, with Navia Drapt I had no handicap for him and no reward (good thing) because I saw his eyes light up and he became full of excitement as he saw the winning plan. This does not proove it is a good game. However, it does proove to my son and me, that it is a fun game and that one can not win by chess-like strategy alone. And I assure you, he did win by a solid game plan, not luck. I look forward to the next game...

Gary Gifford wrote on Fri, Jan 27, 2006 05:55 AM UTC:
Regarding the 'booster pack' concept. As Michael stated, '. . . it means
you don't know what you're buying before you buy it.'
Well, 2 points here: (1) you don't need booster packs.  (2) You can buy
pieces individually. I bought 4 extra pieces to allow for greater game
variety.  I saw them on the internet and knew the exact piece I was
getting.  $1.50 to $2 is not unreasonable to me for these.

In regard to 'fantasy-like piece and action names aestheically
unpleasing, ... ' As well as Mark Thompson's comment, '.. as far as the
aesthetics of the game are concerned, I'm completely with Michael Howe.
The forms of the pieces are repulsive, the bizarre names for everything
(including the game itself) pointlessly ugly.'

Well, we have different tastes.  I find the actual pieces and the many
Japanese or otherwise bizarre sounding names interesting. My family
(fairly mainstream) from the wife, 18 year old, 15, 9, and 6 year old all
like the pieces. The pieces set the mood (the atmosphere) for the game. 
Is Lord Kiggoshi such a terrible name?  Are Rook and Bishop better?  As
Shakespeare wrote, 'A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.'  

I had my second game of Navia Dratp tonight, again with my 15 year old
son.  I won that game, but only by one tempo.  It was a game with lots of
strategy, and many tactical shots.  It was fun.  

For those who don't like the pieces, I can understand that, as I certainy
had strong dislike for original Smess pieces and the board.  This is
simular situation.  But as I pointed out in an earlier comment, you could
make the ND movement grids, glue the Drapt and non-Dratp sides to checkers
and ignore piece names.  To me that would destroy the atmoshpere of this
game. But you could do it and play the game that way.  And use pennies,
nickles and dimes instead of crystals.  As for me, I do not mind bringing
Lord Kiggoshi or Tiny Kiggoshi onto the battlefield.  Their images and
their names don't bother me in the least... nor do the names and images
of the other characters.

In regard to 'repulsive, bizarre,' to me that seems to fit the
world-wide news far better than it does ND.

Medusa Shogi. Missing description (11x11, Cells: 121) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Fri, Jan 27, 2006 11:12 PM UTC:
Fortunately L.L. Smith asked about castling in Medusa Shogi; sadly I
neglected to mention it.

Medusa Shogi allows for castling as follows:

a) Move your King 1, 2, 3, or 4 spaces towards the Rook on the desired
side.
b) Place that Rook on the square next to the King, and toward the center. 
Thus the left Rook would go just to the King's right; or if castling to
the right, that Rook would go just to the King's left.

Restrictions on castling are as in western chess.  The Medusa Shogi rules
have been updated.  Larry, thanks for that very important question.

Navia Dratp. An upcoming commercial chess variant with collectible, tradable pieces. (7x7, Cells: 49) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
Gary Gifford wrote on Sat, Jan 28, 2006 12:25 PM UTC:
In response to my brief question [which was from a larger context) 'Is
Lord Kiggoshi such a terrible name?' Mark Thompson replied: 'No,
Kiggoshi does sound Japanese. But Chugyullas, Coydrocomp, Nebguard? ---
 
Gary G response: What about Cyclops, Hydra, Medusa from stories of old? 
Were these not strange names that we've simply gotten used to?  Should I
rename Medusa Shogi to Snake-Haired Lady Drop Chess?

Mark asked: Gyullas (to mean simply Money)? --- 
Gary G response: Gyullas are energy
crystals.  They are not money.

Mark asked: Dratp (to mean simply Promote)? ---- 
Gary G response: Dratping a piece can increase or decrease a piece's movement. 
It can also result in that piece leaving the board,
depending on the Dratp effect, or in earning more
Gyullas (money if you prefer-but they are not money), or in bringing
another piece into the battle... etc.  So, I prefer Dratp to the word
promote.  Though Dratping is  certainly related to promoting... it is more
intense and requires an expenditure of Gyullas (crystals).  In fact, the
Navia Dratp (costing 60 Gyullas) instatly wins the game for the person
making that Drapt.  And that is how I lost my first game of ND.

Gary Gifford wrote on Sat, Jan 28, 2006 04:46 PM UTC:
MT: Energy crystals, money, what's the difference. 
Gary G response: Crystals set up for a magic atmosphere.  Also, I cannot
use crystals to buy things in the U.S.

MT: While I agree that dratping isn't exactly the same as promoting, the
concept is close enough.
Gary G response: Dratping is a more precise term for the game being
discussed.

MT:  ... coining a new word that's unrelated to anything in the language
-- AND is either almost-unpronouncable or has a silent letter, what's
with that? 
Gary G response: Dratp (pronounced 'Drap', not too difficult) How do we
ever get new words?  Silent letters- gee whiz, are we to throw out much of
the English language.  Look at words like giraffe (crazy 'g') and phone
(ph acting like 'f') etc.

MT: Silent letters are vestiges of pronunciations from earlier times,
what's the point of including one in a new coinage?
Gary G response: It is for a new game with a mysterious atmoshphere. But
if we want to keep asking 'why' we can hit a virtual brick wall fairly
quick.  I am learning Russian, I can call a cat a kooshka, and I can say
dobrahdeen and dosvidawnya... but why?  Because others know these words
and I can learn them and want to... but I don't have to.  Dratping is
another word to my vocabulary.  Navia Dratp players understand it. It is
not that hard.  Why make a big deal of this game's language?

MT: My aesthetic preferences are admittedly my own, and though I feel I
have good reasons behind them, I don't expect everyone else to share
them.
These things depend on individual judgment, sentiment, and taste. As
I've
already said, it's a fine game.
Gary G response: I am glad you think it is a fine game.  I do too.  As far
as the game's linguistic aspect, I don't know why some people want to keep
complaining about it.

Medusa Shogi. Missing description (11x11, Cells: 121) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
💡📝Gary Gifford wrote on Sun, Jan 29, 2006 10:56 PM UTC:
Should anyone want to play Medusa Shogi:

1) The following link is to an updated Medusa Shogi pre-set that allows
the players to store captured pieces (pieces in-hand) on the sides of the
board.

http://play.chessvariants.org/pbm/play.php?game%3DMedusa+Shogi%26settings%3DMedusaShogi

2) L.L. Smith has made a nice piece set for the Medusa Shogi ZRF
(Zillions) version of the game.  The pieces actually look like some
long-lost, but recently discovered hieroglyphic Shogi pieces.  I found
them very easy to use.  The ZRF (of which I have play-tested the first
versions) should be available in the very near future. I am hoping the Mr.
Smith's piece set will be made available to CV.

Xorix Shogi. Shogi where piece movement are XORed with captured pieces. (9x9, Cells: 81) [All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
Gary Gifford wrote on Fri, Feb 3, 2006 10:53 AM UTC:
Fergus, I thought it would be good if A. Black would play you since he created the game and then you, of course, brought it into reality. You are the 2 individuals who understand the game the most... so a game between the two Xorix Shogi theoretically best minds would be logical and looked forward to by onlookers. At the moment I am a bit fatigued from game analysis, but am still playing (play-testing) a few games of my own and of others. And I bumped into a good college friend of mine at a CV invitation to Grand Chess (we last spoke and saw each other in 1981)... so I could not miss the chance to play that game. But if you have no challengers within a few weeks I will consider giving XS a try. Best regards, and hopefully A. Black will accept your challenge.

[Subject Thread] [Add Response]
Gary Gifford wrote on Fri, Feb 3, 2006 09:46 PM UTC:
The player, Manabu Terao, seems to be listed twice, but with 2 slightly
different IDs.

Gary Gifford wrote on Fri, Feb 3, 2006 11:27 PM UTC:
Two people named Manabu Terao (a very common name) with essentially the
same rating (very probable), and same ID, but of course with one having a
numeric extension.  That prooves they are different people?  I think they
are one and the same.  But I will comment no further on this matter.

Shogi. The Japanese form of Chess, in which players get to keep and replay captured pieces. (9x9, Cells: 81) (Recognized!)[All Comments] [Add Comment or Rating]
Gary Gifford wrote on Sun, Feb 5, 2006 03:05 PM UTC:Excellent ★★★★★
Shogi, is of course, an excellent game. But here is what is interesting: In
relation to another CV comment, seemingly unrelated (i.e., Fergus's
comment to research a certain player to see he (Fergus) had no
double-identity).. Well, I did research that player and found out he was
in Tokyo and had a Shogi link which was quite interesting.  He also
mentioned a site where you could play Shogi in real-time.  So, I went to
http://www.kurnik.org and in minutes won my first 10 minute on-line speed
Shogi game... quite fun.  I was then crushing my opponent in a second game
when a most terrible thing happened.  I went to move the Rook, but then
realized I could drop a pawn instead and win a Lance for the pawn.  When I
clicked to drop the pawn, my Rook moved to that square instead... so,
instead of winning a Lance, I lost a Rook... oh what sorrow due to a
mechanical issue.  Anyway, it is fun to play real-time Shogi... and thanks
to the rating system double-idntity issue, a real-time Shogi site was
found.

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